Note: one web site suggests a million made due to the war effort?
In my case I have been gifted a not so old one, the one in question is the LLS model and dates to 1961, they have an engine number on them, find that then search the web to find out its age.
The same spark plug after it was bead blasted and the gap set to 0.020"
These parts were in a bad state, years of none use had seen them age and become more or less jammed up, in the case of the gear box pinion, it was seized solid and I had to ask the advice of John from SOS In Essex, England on how to free it up.
SOS and the contacts for John in the UK are in the link above.
The gearbox house and gear wheel, with the shaft came out after a bit of carefull work, once cleaned up, it was clear to see that they were still in fine condition and still able to do the job they were made for.
Most of the parts taken off the engine were cleaned in the blasting cabinet, I did not do the Villiers carb due to the fact that the small glass beads may do more harm than good.
The seized pinion, Johns advice was to add lots of thin oil and use a battery powered drill turn the square drive that is in the house, in my case I needed a 220v drill but I used minimum power. The shaft freed off just as John had predicted, I then added 20W/50 engine oil once the shaft was free and moving. Any friction here will stop the engine from turning as it should.
One last item and this is very important, as soon as your Seagull is running, check the cooling water escape hole has a steady stream of water running as can be seen in this picture. If there is no water, stop the engine and find out why? To stop the engine, close the throttle and the fuel supply tap and put your hand over the carburetor intake.
Roy @ http://www.ckdboats.com/
Some updates have happened since this Seagull repair page was posted, find them below: