Situated on the A567, 9 miles from Liverpool, 11 miles from Southport stands the oldest inn in Lancashire. To visit this traditional thatched inn is to step back into the past; it retains most of its original structural features. Real ale is drawn from the barrel and served from a jug. Built around an oak tree in the 14th century and known as 'The Royal Oak', until, as legend tells, an injured highland piper from the 1745 rebellion took refuge at the inn, he married the innkeeper's daughter, hence the change in name to 'The Scotch Piper'.
The oldest Inn in Lancashire is certainly a very old building and associated as it is with several curious legends, is still in very much it's original form, despite at least three fires in living memory!
The Scotch Piper is strategically situated close to the late medieval remains of Lydiate Hall and St Catherine's Chapel on the west side of Southport Road, Lydiate. Bordering on open farm land it is on the northern edge of Merseyside, close to the important Liverpool/Ormskirk turnpike and Liverpool/Leeds Canal.
Also adjacent and approached from Station Road (formerly Lolly's Lane) was the Cheshire Lines railway from Liverpool to Southport, now one of the increasingly used 'Sustrans' walking and cycling trails.
Lydiate, still as in former centuries, provides a rural refuge, not only for example, Gerard Manley Hopkins (1880-1881), but during the 19th century a school of painters. Since then many others have, during the last thirty five years enjoyed the
hospitality of the hard-working and well-loved tenants of the Scotch Piper, Charles and Ada Rigby.
THE BUILDING
According to a recent archaeological survey [see references] the Scotch Piper appears to be of mid 16th century construction. It is a two-storey thatched "yeoman" dwelling with a cruck frame consisting of three bays. It has external walls of brick resting on a sandstone plinth which may have been taken from St Catherine's Chapel , Lydiate Hall or indeed the same adjacent quarry that their stone came from in the fields at the back of Lydiate Hall.
Crucks are a medieval form of construction found in the west of England consisting of long curved timbers joined together in pairs, rising from ground level and joined near the top by a tie beam or collar, supporting the purlins of the roof.
It's centre chimney is built from hand-made bricks with fireplaces opening on both sides on ground floor level. On the first floor there is a fire grate on the north side only. It is interesting to note that the earliest use of brick in Lydiate is dated at 1609 and possibly the brick of this chimney dates from that time. A smoke hood is formed from horizontal wattle and daub supported on an oak beam and wattle and daub is found extensively in the construction of interior walls.
The Scotch Piper 1920
The north bay is an 18th century rebuild of an earlier bay which may have been a stable with a granary or hayloft above. According to the archaeologists all the timber in the bay seems to have come from elsewhere, maybe from Lydiate Hall.
Further alterations probably took place in the 19th century with the introduction of a new chimney in the north bay and alteration to the south gable. After the 1985 fire this was remodelled to a hipped shape.
Following the fire in 1985 timber from the middle bay was sampled by tree ring analysis and the date of 1550 has been suggested for its construction. The tree ring analysis shows that the trees from which the wood had been cut had been grown in open woodland. The still visible lower parts of the crucks seem to have given rise to the legend that the pub was "built around an oak".
When sold by the Weld-Blundells to the then tenant, Mr Henry Moorcroft in 1922, the Scotch Piper Inn stood on five acres of land. Apart from the house itself there were shippons for four cows, a two stall stable, two pig styes, two earth closets and a urinal. Water was supplied from a well. The contemporary map shows, behind the main house a, ( possibly wooden,) erection which seems to have served as a village hall.. This extension was said to have had a well-sprung floor, ideal for dances and weddings.It was replaced by the purpose built hall on the opposite side of the road in 1935.
WHO BUILT THE SCOTCH PIPER?
Based on the apparent date of construction as given by the timber ring analysis and the known fact that the property was part of the Lydiate Hall Estate up to it's sale in 1922 we may suppose that the building was erected during the lifetime of Lawrence Ireland II of Lydiate, (died 1566) and during the reign of Elizabeth I. One of the Military Muster of 153, he was nominated as one of the Commanders of the west Derby Hundred and died in 1566. A grandson also known as Lawrence was living at the Hall in 1561. This Lawrence Ireland is said to have been the "first of his family to suffer on the score of religion". Lawrence Ireland III, died
before 1610 with property in Lydiate, Eggergarth, Cunscough, Aughton and Maghull. His son, Edward inherited in Lydiate apart from the Hall, 10 houses, 12 cottages, 1 dove cote, 1 windmill, 1 watermill, 10 orchards, 120 acres arable, and 100 acres meadow.
The Scotch Piper would have been one of these properties.
In their time, the Irelands of Lydiate became a prominent local family but the direct male line died out and on the marriage of a daughter the estate passed to the Andertons of Lostock.
WHEN DID IT BECOME AN ALE HOUSE ?
Exactly when the Scotch Piper first functioned as an Ale House isn't clear but if we take it from the licence lists it was probably from the mid 17th Century. Licence lists for Lydiate for the years 1663-1675-1681 and 1693 can still be found in the Lancashire Record Office but the actual licenses (flimsy bits of paper ) seem to have long vanished. The licences were issued annually and were issued to individuals not for specific houses. The first person to be named was Bartholomew Holme in 1663 and his name remained on the list along with Henry Gore until 1675. Bartholomew and his wife Janet were listed as Recusants in the Bishops's Transcript 1673 and he was buried at Halsall Church in 1681. These gentlemen also list themselves as farmers. Further research could possibly uncover earlier lists.
WHAT'S IN A NAME?
Originally thought to have been called the Royal Oak we know the pub was later called the Scotch Piper - a name clearly shown on the licence granted to Peter Taylor in 1823 (incidentally his name first appeared on licence lists in 1805). In 1825, it was the 'Bag Pipes'.
New names appear in the directory for 1854, a new licensee Ann Hartley and another name 'Old Lolly'.
Down the road (then known as Halsall Road) the other old Lydiate Pub, (originally know as the Plough) subsequently became known as the 'New Lolly' (1871) and then later the 'Weld-Blundell'.
The assumption has been made that in some way "Lolly" was a local colloquial term for bag pipes, but we can find no evidence for this in the Lancashire dialect. It is interesting to note that ajacent to the ScotchPiper there was in 1851 a Lolly's Lane (now Station Road), and that the adjacent canal bridge originally known as Holmes Bridge became known as Lolly's Bridge. In all probability the Inn was named after Lawrence Ireland its builder but it should be noted that there were four generations named Lawrence between 1410 - 1673. The licensee in 1861 - 1871, Edmund Harrison, kept the name Old Lolly but a new Licensee in1881 reverted to Highland Piper and by 1891 it had again become the Scotch Piper.
The old pub sign.
THE SCOTCH PIPER LEGEND
"The Scotch Piper was called after a Scottish soldier."
Here we have the legend of an injured (?) Scottish Piper marrying the Landlord's daughter and causing the ale house to be renamed the "Highland Piper". First we have to ask ourselves how is it a Highland Soldier comes to be in Lydiate? There is
of course no reason why such a person whether a piper or not should not have been passing through Lydiate in a perfectly peaceful manner at any time. The tradition seems to be that there was some connection with one or other Jacobite rising in the 18th century.
Certainty Sir Francis Anderton the owner of Lydiate and other extensive estates in Lancashire in the early 18th Century is known to have been one of the Lancashire gentry who personally joined the Jacobite army at Preston in November 1715.
Unfortunately for him the fight was easily won in a matter of hours by the government forces. Within 24 hours, he was captured and on December 9th his cousin (Mr Blundell) personally saw him arrive as a prisoner in London. He was subsequently imprisoned at Newgate and tried.
Condemned for treason Sir Francis escaped with his life but suffered the confiscation of his estates including the Scotch Piper which subsequently went to his brother Lawrence who renounced his religion in order to inherit. Lawrence seems to have been a bit of a "Jack the Lad"! Despite having been educated as a Catholic priest on the continent,he amassed huge debts and the estate subsequently passed to the Weld-Blundells.
Sir Francis subsequently returned to Lydiate Hall were he continued to live the life of a country gentleman (breeding prize game cocks ) but there seems no reason why he would have brought back a Scotch Piper with him. According to local tradition he was accustomed to say that "for a days out he had lost a fine estate"!
The second Jacobite rising in 1745 followed a different course. The Jacobite troops were led by the 'Young Pretender' Prince Charles Edward as far as Derby where on the 4th December 1745 they lost confidence and retreated back to the north. Hearing of the attempted rebellion the strongly pro-Hanoverian Liverpool Merchants took very active steps to defend the town should it be attacked. These included the raising of a Regiment of eight companies of volunteers (The Liverpool Blues), 700 strong. Baines records that after being drilled for three months, on the approach of the Pretender and his army, the Liverpool Blues were ordered to march to Warrington and other places in Lancashire and Cheshire for the purpose of breaking down the bridges and thus prevent the march of the insurgents to the Welsh border where the supporters of the House of Stuart were very strong. The first bridge over the Mersey was at Warrington and the two central arches were taken down thus destroying it. Today there is a plaque on the bridge commemorating this event.
The Fire, 1985; Charles Rigby in Action
At Warrington the Blues captured a reconnoitering party of Highlanders and then returned to Liverpool with their prisoners. Liverpool was in fact not attacked and it would seem likely that after a period the Highland prisoners were released to return to Scotland. Lydiate is, of course, on the direct route from Liverpool to Preston and points North. It could well be that one of the dispirited returning Scotsmen, arriving at the end of a days walk from Liverpool, sought refresment and comfort at Lydiate. Perhaps this is a possible source of the legend?
THE LAST CENTURY OR SO
According to census entries, Edmund Harrison Publican and Market Gardener and his wife Jane were at the "Old Lolly" in 1861 together with 3 daughters, a son and a 3 year old grandson. They were still in charge in 1871 together with a new grandson Robert Moorcroft aged 4.
The Moorcroft name then became a " fixture " for the next 64 years. John and Jane Moorcroft were in charge in 1881 and 1891. In the latter year John was described as a farmer and Jane was the licensee. In 1922 when the Lydiate estate was sold, Henry Moorcroft aged 30 purchased the house from the Weld Blundell estate. Mrs Moorcroft subsequently was licensee for a long period and it is said that she kept the small parlour at the North end mainly for here own use, customers only joined her by special invitation!
In 1945, Mrs ,Moorcroft sold the pub to Burtonwood Brewery and retired leaving the management of the pub to Mr and Mrs Jones and then Mrs Orrin, Ada Rigby's mother. The Orrin's were in charge until 1961 when Mr Orrin retired and Charles and Ada Rigby took over the tenancy - a reign which very successfully and happily continued until Charles' sad demise in September 1996 and Ada's subsequent retirement in November 1996.
Charles and Ada celebrating their new thatch
THE CUSTOMERS
A pub would be nowhere without it's customers- who were they?
Historically, most of the neighbourhood traditionally consisted of market gardeners and small farmers. No doubt they would call in on their way to and from market. Although not on the Turnpike Road, there would be passing travellers on their way
to Halsall and Southport. The farmers would employ outside labour for harvesting so no doubt they would want a drink - legend has it that the middle room became " The Guiness" room.
The local land owners would employ gamekeepers and what better place for them to relax. Let us not forget the people from the barges. It is surprising how many boats are recorded, some with wives and families, some just groups of men.
Lydiate had its station on the Cheshire Lines so there would be people coming out from Liverpool to do business with the merchants in the larger houses or perhaps a tailor who would come out yearly to measure and make up suits for the farmers.
It is known that the well known poet Gerard Manley Hopkins when a priest in Liverpool in 1880-1881 used to come out to Lydiate to stay with the Lightbounds at Rose Hill and the Scotch Piper is nearby so is this were he also found inspiration?
Right up to the present day many people, whether local residents, or visitors have appreciated the Scotch Piper for what it is- a village meeting place -an oasis of peace and human interest. Long may its sturdy timbers and happy atmosphere survive.
"Them as buys beef buys bones, Them as buys land buys stones, Them as buys eggs buys shells, Them as buys ale buys nowt else,
- Except at the Scotch Piper where you get History as well."
Adapted from an old Lancashire Rhyme.
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References
Journal of the Merseyside Archeological society vol. 6 1990
Riches and Religion, StephenW.Manning 199?
Based on a talk given to the Maghull and Lydiate Local History Society in February 1995 this short account is dedicated to the memory of Charles Rigby whose kindness and generosity of spirit will long be remembered with affection by very many local residents and visitors.
Our appreciation and best wishes also go to Ada in her retirement.
For some of the historical infomation we are grateful to Stephen N.Manning, Jennifer Lewis and P.A.Leggett of the Merseyside Archeological Society. (See Refmrences)
All profits from the sale of this publication will go to Queens Court Hospice,Southport.
Written by Reginad and Barbara Yorke
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